Of all the checkballs, the 1-2 is the most likely to start wearing through the plate, due to the force of the shift. If so, you'll be able to retrieve it when you remove the separator plate, which is a good idea to replace, even if there's no wear on it. If you're 'missing' a checkball, check back up at the separator plate / gasket, to see if the 1-2 checkball punched through the plate (partially or fully). Time to count checkballs - how many do you have? Take a pic if you want, and put the checkballs in a jar (a magnetic pickup tool is useful for removing them one at a time). You'll see the checkballs at this point, in their little recesses. Then carefully drag whatever you set the VB on out from under the truck. Have something ready you can set it on (newspaper) while you crawl out from underneath the truck. So - with the rod disconnected from the VB (and the little piston it attaches to in the VB may slide out - try to keep it from hitting the floor / ground - if you can get it to slide back in the VB housing, that will be fine. Thankfully, I had not torqued the bolts down yet (more on the setting below.) If you fasten the VB to the case first - you will NOT be able to reconnect the shift lever - this happened to me. It's easiest to disconnect it from the VB when you have it lowered about 3" or so - and if you move the VB slightly in the the front or rear direction of the vehicle (keeping it horizontal!), you'll be able to disconnect the shift lever easily (and remember this when you go to reassemble - the lever will easily reconnect if you have the VB in roughly the same position when you took it out. This is probably the trickiest part of removing the VB.Īs you're slowly lowering the VB, you'll notice that there's a metal rod connecting to it on the driver's side. When you're ready, remove the last bolt in the center, and be ready to hold the VB level with one hand, while you're disconnecting the shift lever rod with the other. Again - the instruction sheet is good at showing where they go back - but if you're worried, you can always take a quick snap of it before you remove them. As long as you keep the VB even fairly level when you bring it down, the checkballs will be retained in their proper locations. That's going to keep the VB intact and level for you (and checkballs intact - all except one of them sit in the top end of the VB (the side you can't see). When you remove the bolts, loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the middle bolt, at first. The instructions tell you which size goes where - make sure you review that when you're putting them back in. When you're sure you understand them - read them again - 'see / be the valve body'.lol. I don't need to tell you about seized pan bolts, at least.įirst - read the instructions that came with the kit. Since you replaced the 1-2 (?) accumulator, you've had the pan off and have seen the valve body. Ok - this is fairly easy to answer for me, since I've done this last year. I suppose I'm mainly just asking for advise for those who have installed this kit into their own rides, and what they would recommend for a first-time installer of the kit.
I understand the kit, but I have concerns like losing checkballs, and how the checkballs that stay in the case will actually stay in the case while working on the car-and gravity can cause the ball to drop.
I have the TransGo SK4L60E correction kit, and am considering doing it to buy me a little more time off the trans before I get where I want to be financially to buy a new car. I did change my fluid around 174k (currently at 178k) miles and added a Sonaxx pinless accumulator, didn't fix the problem. Another thing to note is that my 2-3 shift will lag and hang-if I'm accelerating hard, in normal driving conditions, I don't feel hang between 2-3. Trans fluid is nice and red, not burnt, so seeing as people around here never seem to keep up with trans maintenance, I just assume the trans was replaced at some point in the distant-past. I don't know the history of this car as it was a $600 "take it or leave it deal" and seeing as it was cheap, with a 5.3l with 168k, I figured why not. Sort of "laggy" so to speak, makes the RPM's hang before shift when warm, right away in the morning when the trans is cold, it shifts perfectly normal-until it warms up. Alright, so since I've bought my TB EXT 5.3L (last October), it's always had a rough 1-2 shift, not like, terribly violent, but very noticeable.
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